Makerkar – Library Makercart – INSTRUCTABLE

The Concept

The MAKERKAR is basically a bottom frame on wheels, with 4 corner risers, that hold the shelf frames.

The frame is constructed out of 30x30 extruded aluminum profiles, bolted together with external corner connectors.
Internal corner connectors, which will be invisible, can be used too, but they will make you less flexible if you want to modify things.
Building the frame requires no welding, drilling or gluing, just bolting.
Only the banner needs some holes drilled.

The MAKERKAR is dimensioned on the following:
- length: largest desktop lasercutter (Glowforge 96,5 cm); use of a commercial banner of 101,5 cm; resulting in a total length of 117 cm.
- width: pass though any door 72 cm or more.
- height: should fit in a van like the VW Transporter, so max 128 cms high.

Tools

  • Allen hex key 5 mm for external corners
  • Allen hex key 3 mm for internal corners
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • 4 pieces of plywood 600 x 135 mm as templates
  • access to a lasercutter 1200 x 900 mm
tools

Squaring jig

  • Joris van Tubergen of ProtoSpace made a CAD-drawing in Onshape and measurements are very precise, millimeter stuff.
  • So please build a 70 cm squaring jig from some scrapwood, it will save a tremendous amount of time to get the frame square and everything aligned.

Bill of Materials

LC Aluminum T-slot profile 30x30

* beam horizontal 1075 mm      4 pcs
* riser vertical 1060 mm           4 pcs
* shelf horizontal 1015 mm      4 pcs
* girder all 640 mm                16 pcs
* box cross bar 580 mm           1 pcs
* box side 300 mm                   2 pcs
* box vertical 230 mm              2 pcs
* external corner AHS1-28       64 pcs
* internal corner IHS1-90-8      6 pcs
(Note: recount needed for bolts and nuts)
* T-slotted nut SLM1-M6-8    160 pcs
* hammernut HM1-M6-8         64 pcs
* cylindrical bolts 160 M6x12 / 36 M6x16 / 8 M6x20
* 24 capnuts M6
* flathead screw/nuts 24 M4x8 / 24 M4x16 / 24 M3x12
* plastic endcap kap1-3030     10 pcs

 

Other:

  • 2 Swivel Wheels 125 mm
  • 2 Braked Swivel Wheels 125 mm
  • a commercial 100 cm roll-up banner, cassette length 1015 mm, make your own print design
  • two 4x8 sheets of 9 mm plywood for panels <see .dxf cutfile>
  • 12 Dresselhaus 3030 hinges
  • 12 snaplocks 43x8mm for the panels and doors.
  • 6 3Dprinted handles Ultimaker style <.stl>
  • 2 3Dprinted grips for the  banner top <.stl>
  • 64 cm length plastic tube 110mm diameter, 2 brackets and 2 endcaps
  • zipped files MK-cutfiles1 MK-3Dprintfiles

Our supplier Stappenmotor.nl cuts profile to size and ships international.

Assembly

The secret of building the cart is to use a Squaring Rig and an absolutely flat floor or table to prepare the shelves. Then build up from the back panel, using the templates. Please be precise as tolerances are small. Mount the wheels only when the entire frame is built.

Some pics needs updating because assembly was simplified.

Step 0 - Prepare the risers

Identify the four 1060 mm risers and use tw0 M6x20 to mount the 3D printed handles, about 60 mm from the top. The middle holes are not used, but would accept M6x45. Put them aside.

Step 1 - Prepare the shelf frames.

The bottom shelf frame is built from 2 1075 mm beams and 6 640 girders. Mount the corners with M6x12. Use the jig to make sure the frame is square.

At each of the 4 outer girders insert 4 nuts for the wheels.


As a gauge for the girders on the sides use a wheelplate of your wheels (probably 80 mm). Do not mount the wheelplates yet, that will be done later on.

Prepare the middle shelf frame (on which the drawers will go): 2 1015 beams 1015 and 4 640 mm girders. Insert 4 nuts on top of both outer girders (on which the folding panel hinges will go).
Mount the middle girders 300 mm from the ends  ones.
The box for the Cameo will be added in Step 3.

Prepare the upper shelf frame (on which the laser will go).
2 1015 beams and 4 640 mm girders. Insert 2 internal corners AHS1-28 on the frontside, otherwise the drawers will not slide out.

Depending on whether you want to build the cart at this location or somewhere else you should go to Step 2. As you will end with an object 112x71x128cm. If not, prepare all the woodwork now and go to the other place first.

 

Step 2 - Building the cart.

Put the bottom shelf frame on a flat floor, slide 3 nuts in the rear and bolt the back panel to them. Mount two 1060 mm risers vertically on the corners and attach the back panel with 3 hammernuts. Hammernuts are preferred here for later removal.

Mount two 1060 mm risers vertically on the front corners. They feel wobbly, but that will change.

 

Put temporarily some clamps on the risers, about 60 cm from the bottom. Mount the middle shelf frame on top of them. Use the MAKERKAR-templates to put free space to the bottom shelf to exactly 60 cms.

Mount the upper shelf frame, free space to the middle shelf is 13.5 cms. Check with the template.

At the top mount two 640 side girders, not the long beams. Free space from upper frame to top should be 26.5 cms now. If not, back to the templates.

The long beams will be removable, so put 2 internal corners AHS1-28 on the 1075 beams . Ensure that the bar can be inserted and lifted from the risers smoothly. Fasten with 3mm hex key.

Step 3 - The Cameo box.

Take the small wooden shelf and bolt first two 300 mm on it, then the 640 girder, the 580 crossbar and the 200 verticals. Hole on the rear, the hole is for the water tubes.

Mount the assembly on the left risers and on the middle frame girder.

Attach a length of 650 mm 0f 110 mm plastic tube that will store the vinyl, with two hammernuts. Not critical, just fasten.

Step 4 - Wheels

Lay the whole frame on a side and mount the wheels. Some swivelwheel brands accept only one washer.

Then put the frame upright again. (old pic)

You're done with the frame.
Give it a spin!

IMG_0118

Step 5 - The banner and the woodwork.

Shorten the front feet of the banner so it can be flush with the front. Drill two 4 mm holes in the center of the feet to the rear.

Drill two 4 mm holes in the 3D printed grips and in the banner top and bolt the grips <.stl>
Put the bottom shelf on the bottom frame. No need to fix it to the bottom frame: chiller and filter will hold it in place, but you can clamp it. Mount the banner with 4 M4 flatheads
Put the middle shelf on the middle frame. With the cutout in the right rear corner, it should slide in.
Screw the four drawer-sliders down. And click-fasten the power outlets, switches to the front.
Put the upper shelf on the upper frame. And click-fasten the smaller power outlets.

Step 6 - The doors and panels

Prepare the doors, with M6x16 and capnut for the hinges and small M3x12 flathead (or M4x16 flathead with ring and capnut, to check) for the male snaplocks.

Now mount the doors with M6x12 and hammernuts loosely in the risers.
Prepare the folding panels in the same way and mount on the middle shelf girder.

Prepare all 3D print snaplock holders with M4x12. <.stl>
Insert female snaplock assemblies and mount loosely with M6x12 and hammernut in the girders.

Move the doors up till they support the folding panel horizontally.
Slide the snaplocks into position and fasten. Do not overtighten.

That's it !

Congratulations !

 

Extras

  • Drawers are two standard Euronorm boxes 60x40x15 (e.g. Kruizinga 98-1410) with 3Printed handles. <.stl> We call the left one the 'clean drawer' as it holds electronic stuff like Makeymakey, Micro:bit and Arduinos. The right one the 'messy drawer' as is holds supplies and scraps for the laser cutter.
  • Two 6-outlet socket bars with switch plus mounting clips.
    In my cart the left one powers the laser, chiller, rightsocketbar and the uppershelf sockets. The right one powers the noisy things which are only required when you are actually cutting: air assist compressor and air filter.
  • Two 3-outlet sockets plus mounting clips.
  • For mounting clips I used Swedish Gren-Fix (Conrad 613468).
  • An IKEA Lennart 303.261.77 drawerset  for tools. This €10 set fits perfect, though one could build something better. I glued magnets on the rear cross so drawers will not move during transport. A power drill case will fit underneath.
  • A lasercut 4mm plywood box for a laptop, same height at the banner, so an Ultimaker2Go box will fit on top. <.dxf>
  • The front and rear topbars can be removed for better access to the laser; with a 3 mm hex key, which resides in the orange holder on the left. Also a 5 mm key for periodic tightening of bolts.
  • You could adapt the cart for a 40W MetaQuip CO2 laser machine LITE, which is 73 cms deep: add 3 cm to the girders and doors. The problem with deeper lasers is the exhaust tube to bend downwards, but the tube could be made removable.