Makerkar – Library Makercart – INSTRUCTABLE

The Concept

The MAKERKAR is basically a bottom frame on wheels, with 4 corner risers, that hold the shelf frames.

The frame is constructed out of 30x30 extruded aluminum profiles, bolted together with external corner connectors.
Internal corner connectors, which will be invisible, can be used too, but they will make you less flexible if you want to modify things.
Building the frame requires no welding, drilling or gluing, just bolting.
Only the banner needs some holes drilled.

The MAKERKAR is dimensioned on the following:
- length: largest desktop lasercutter (Glowforge 96,5 cm); a commercial banner of 101,5 cm
- width: pass though any door 71 cm or more
- height: should fit in a van like the VW Transporter, so max 128 cms high.

Tools

  • Allen key 5 mm for external corners
  • Allen key 3 mm for internal corners
  • Phillips screwdrivers
  • a piece of plywood 600 x 135 mm as template
tools

Squaring jig

  • Joris van Tubergen of ProtoSpace made a CAD-drawing in Onshape and measurements are very precise, millimeter stuff.
  • So please build a 70 cm squaring jig from some scrapwood, it will save a tremendous amount of time to get the frame square and everything aligned.

Bill of Materials

LC Aluminum T-slot profile 30x30

* beam horizontal 1075 mm      4 pcs
* riser vertical 1060 mm           4 pcs
* shelf horizontal 1015 mm      4 pcs
* girder all 640 mm                16 pcs
* box cross bar 580 mm           1 pcs
* box side 300 mm                   2 pcs
* box vertical 230 mm              2 pcs
* external corner AHS1-28       64 pcs
* internal corner IHS1-90-8      6 pcs

* T-slotted nut SLM1-M6-8    162 pcs
* hammernut HM1-M6-8         64 pcs
* cylindrical bolts 148 M6x12/24 M6x16/32 M6x20/8 M6x30/8 M6x45/24 capnuts M6
* flathead screw/nuts 24 M4x8/40 M4x16/16 M4x20/24 capnuts M4
* plastic endcap kap1-3030     10 pcs

Other:

  • 2 Fixed Wheels 125 mm
  • 2 Braked Swivel Wheels 125 mm
  • a commercial 100 cm roll-up banner, cassette length 1015 mm, make your own print design
  • two 4x8 sheets of 9 mm plywood for panels <see .dxf cutfile>
  • 12 3030 hinges
  • 12 snaplocks for the panels and doors.
  • 6 3Dprinted handles Ultimaker style <.stl>
  • 2 3Dprinted grips for the  banner top <.stl>
  • 64 cm length plastic tube 110mm diameter, 2 brackets and 2 endcaps
  • zipped files  MK-cutfiles  MK-3Dprintfiles

Our supplier Stappenmotor.nl cuts profile to size and ships international.

Assembly

The secret of building the cart is to use a Squaring Rig and an absolutely flat floor or table to prepare the shelves. Then build up, using the templates. Please be precise as tolerances are small. Mount the wheels only when the entire frame is built.

Step 1 - Prepare the shelf frames.

The bottom shelf frame is built from 2 1075 mm beams and 6 640 girders
Use the jig to make sure the corners are square.At the endsides insert 4 nuts for the wheels and 4 nuts for the doors.


As a gauge for the girders on the sides use a wheelplate of your wheels (probably 80 mm). Do not mount the wheelplates yet, that will be done later on.

Prepare the middle shelf frame (on which the drawers will go): 2 1015 beams 1015 and 3 640 mm girders.
Mount the middle girder off center 400 mm from the left
(the box for the Cameo will be added in Step 3).Prepare the upper shelf frame (on which the laser will go)
2 1015 beams and 4 640 mm girders. Insert 2 internal corners on the frontside, otherwise the drawers will not slide out.

Depending on whether you want to build the cart at this location or somewhere else you should go to Step 2. As you will end with an object 112x71x128cm. If not, prepare all the woodwork now and go to the other place first.Step 2 - Building the frame

Put the bottom shelf frame on a flat floor and mount four 1060 mm risers vertically on the corners. They feel wobbly, but that will change.

4 risers

Put temporarily some clamps on the risers, about 60 cm from the bottom. Mount the middle shelf frame on top of them. Use the MAKERKAR-template to put free space to the bottom shelf to exactly 60 cms.Mount the upper shelf frame, free space to the middle shelf is 13.5 cms. Check with the template.At the top mount two 640 side girders, not the long beams. Free space from upper frame to top should be 26.5 cms now. The long beams will be removable, so put 2 internal corners AHS1-28 on the 1075 beams . Ensure that the bar can be inserted and lifted from the risers smoothly. Fasten with 3mm hex key.

Step 3 - The Cameo box.

Take the small wooden shelf and bolt first two 300 mm on it, then the 640 girder, the 580 crossbar and the 200 verticals. Hole on the rear, the hole is for the water tubes.

Mount the assembly on the left risers, 40 cms from the bottom girder. And on the middle frame, where you will need some distance rings.

Attach a length of 650 mm 0f 110 mm plastic tube that will store the vinyl, with two hammernuts. Not critical, just fasten.

Step 4 - Wheels

Lay the whole frame on a side and mount the wheels.Then put the frame upright again.
Prepare the 3Dprinted handles with 2 M6x20 and 2 M6x45.  Insert the handle with nuts from the top and tighten.

Congratulations.
You're done with the frame.
Give it a spin!

outside

Step 5 - The banner and the woodwork.

Shorten the front feet of the banner so it can be flush with the front. Drill two 4 mm holes in the center of the feet to the rear.

Drill two 4 mm holes in the 3D printed grips and in the banner top and bolt the grips <.stl>
Put the bottom shelf on the bottom frame. No need to fix it to the bottom frame: chiller and filter will hold it in place, but you can clamp it. Mount the banner with 4 M4 flatheads
Put the middle shelf on the middle frame. With the cutout in the right rear corner, it should slide in.
Screw the four drawer-sliders down. And click-fasten the power outlets, switches to the front.
Put the upper shelf on the upper frame. And click-fasten the smaller power outlets.

Step 6 - The doors and panels

Prepare the doors, with M6x20 flathead and capnut for the hinges and  M4x16 flathead, with ring and capnut for the male snaplocks.

Mount the doors with M6 and hammernuts loosely in the risers.
Prepare the workpanels in the same way and mount on the middle shelf girder.

Prepare all 3D print snaplock holders <.stl>
Insert female snaplock assemblies with flathead M6x12 in the girders.

Align the snaplocks for height and fasten.

Mount the back panel now with 6 flathead M6x16 and hammernuts. Adjust the whole frame if it is not square.

Option: you can insert all 17 flathead or cheesehead M6x16 and hammernuts, but better do that when all the equipment has been placed on the bottom shelf.
DONE

Sundries

  • Drawers are two standard Euronorm boxes 60x40x12 (e.g. Kruizinga 98-1410) with 3Printed handles. <.stl> We call the left one the 'clean drawer' as it holds electronic stuff like Makeymakey, Micro:bit and Arduino. The right one the 'messy drawer' as is holds supplies and scraps for the laser cutter.
  • Two 6-outlet socket bars with switch plus mounting clips.
    In my cart the left one powers: laser, chiller, right bar and the uppershelf sockets. The right one powers the noisy things which are only required when you are actually cutting: air assist compressor and air filter.
  • Two 3-outlet sockets plus mounting clips.
  • For mounting clips I used swedish Gren-Fix (Conrad 613468).
  • An IKEA Lennart 303.261.77 drawerset  for tools. This €10 set fits perfect, though one could build something better. I glued magnets on the rear cross so drawers will not move during transport. A power drill case will fit underneath.
  • A lasercut 4mm plywood box for a laptop, same height at the banner, so an Ultimaker2Go box will fit on top. <.dxf>
  • The front and rear topbars can be removed for better access to the laser with a 3 mm hex key, which resides on the left. Also a 5 mm key for periodic tightening of bolts.